Quince Jelly with Bourbon Vanilla

Quince Jelly with Bourbon Vanilla. Clear light jelly from Styria, with ginger.

Quince Jelly with Bourbon Vanilla is a clear fruit jelly made from pressed quince juice, produced by Fink's Delikatessen in Ilz, Styria. Not a chunky preserve, not a firm quince paste, no added flavorings.

Quince Jelly with Bourbon Vanilla is a light quince jelly from Fink's Delikatessen, consisting of 72 percent quince juice and rounded off with ginger and vanilla. In the jar, it is light and translucent, somewhere between amber and pale gold. On the spoon, it doesn't string, but breaks softly. Anyone who puts it on a slice of mountain cheese for the first time quickly understands why this combination has worked in Austria for generations.

Two quince varieties yield a tone between apple and pear

The jelly first tastes of quince, then of a fine acidity, finally of vanilla. This order remains constant because no flavor overshadows the other. The fruit tastes like a cross between apple and pear, without being either.

The larger proportion is the juice of true quince, Cydonia oblonga. Added to this is Cido quince juice from the ornamental quince, a small, hard fruit with significantly higher acidity. This second source keeps the 40 grams of sugar per 100 grams in check and prevents the sweetness from becoming cloying. The ginger brings no spiciness, but a subtle warmth in the aftertaste. The Bourbon vanilla is at 0.01 percent and is accordingly restrained, more of a primer than a distinct note.

In the aroma, quince is most prominent. It is reminiscent of what a ripe fruit in a fruit bowl does to a room: floral, a little resinous, unmistakable. The texture is silky and spreads very thinly without running off the bread. There are no fruit pieces; the light jelly is clarified. For connoisseurs who expect a chunky spread with bite, this is not suitable; a preserve would be better here. For a significantly reduced sugar content, a jelly is also not the right format, as it simply won't set without sugar.

A comparison helps with classification. Compared to an apple jelly, the quince appears more tart and much more floral; compared to an elderflower jelly, it appears earthier. It thus lies between the two and has enough character to stand up to strong cheese. Many mild fruit jellies cannot do this.

From the cheese board to the roasting sauce

Expect one level teaspoon per serving; no more is needed. With a matured mountain cheese or a strong blue cheese, place the jelly as a small dot next to the cheese, not on it. This way, both remain distinct.

With foie gras and fine pâtés, it plays the role otherwise performed by fig mustard or mostarda: sweetness and acidity simultaneously, but without spiciness. In a dark roasting sauce for game or duck, dissolve a teaspoon shortly before seasoning. The jelly rounds out the sauce without sweetening it. On the breakfast table, it prefers salted butter and dark rye bread to white bread with a jam-like character.

Two other uses are worth trying. A spoonful over quark, skyr, or Greek yogurt makes a dessert in thirty seconds that looks like more effort. And in a vinaigrette made from apple cider vinegar and rapeseed oil, half a teaspoon replaces honey or sugar and adds acidity. Two Fink spreads that bridge the same gap with dark fruit are the Cherry Preserve with Red Wine and the Apricot Preserve from Austria.

Good to know: Take the jar out of the refrigerator in good time. At room temperature, the quince note opens up significantly; when cold, the jelly seems flatter and sweeter. Always use a dry spoon for removal, otherwise the opened jar will quickly lose its shelf life.

Volcanic soil, traditional orchards, and a family business since 2002

Production takes place in Walkersdorf near Ilz, east of Graz, in the heart of Styria's fruit-growing region. The orchards there are located on mineral-rich soils over volcanic rock, nestled between fields and forests. Since 2002, the family business Fink Haberl KG has been processing fruit and vegetables from the region in this environment.

In this area, old varieties persist that have disappeared elsewhere: Maschansker, Kriecherln, Hauszwetschken, Weingartenpfirsich. They grow in traditional orchards, often on small areas, and yield small harvests with intense aroma. The quince belongs in the same category. It was never cultivated for fresh consumption and is therefore rarely found on supermarket shelves.

The Cido juice in the recipe has its own history. It comes from the ornamental quince Chaenomeles, which was specifically bred in Latvia because its fruits contain significantly more acid than true quince. In the Baltic States, it is considered a substitute for lemon. A small amount of it is enough to give tension to a sweet jelly.

The company calls this method "light jelly," where only the pressed juice is boiled down, not the fruit pulp. The juice is clarified, bound with sugar and pectin, and heated only until the gelling test is complete. This one minute determines the result. Too short, and the jelly runs off the bread. Too long, and it becomes tough and loses its freshness.

Pectin is not an alien substance, but a family affair. Quince is one of the richest fruits in pectin. In old recipes, it therefore served as a natural gelling agent for fruits that do not bind on their own. No artificial colors or preservatives are added to the jar. The clarity comes solely from the clarified juice.

The Austrian counterpart to Spanish quince paste

On the cheese board, this jelly occupies the same place as Spanish Membrillo, but approaches it differently. Membrillo is a firm quince paste made from thickened fruit pulp, which you cut into cubes and place next to the Manchego. The light jelly remains spreadable and spreads over the entire cut surface.

Both have their charm, but should not be confused. Those looking for cubes for a cheese platter will not be happy with a spreadable jelly. Those who, on the other hand, want a spread that works on bread in the morning and next to cheese in the evening can cover two occasions with one jar.

That's exactly what makes it an uncomplicated gift. A jar of quince jelly doesn't require a special kitchen from the recipient, just breakfast or a piece of cheese. And it keeps unopened long enough to wait for the right occasion. For a cheese platter for two, a 220-gram jar lasts for many evenings. This also makes it the easiest way to get acquainted with a fruit that is otherwise rarely found in stores.

A jar for all those who appreciate quince not only for breakfast, but also at the end of a long dinner.