Pommery Mustard – 500 g

Pommery Mustard. Coarse mustard from Meaux in a sealed stoneware pot.

Pommery Mustard is the coarse-grained Moutarde de Meaux in a 500-g stoneware pot with a cork lid and red sealing wax. No Dijon mustard, no sweet mustard, no mustard with honey or wine.

Pommery Mustard is a coarse table mustard from Meaux east of Paris, in which whole mustard seeds lie in a spicy paste seasoned with fine vinegar. It does not need to shy away from comparison with Dijon; it simply plays a different game. Dijon mustard is smooth and sharp, going straight to the nose. The mustard from Meaux is grainy and rounded, its spiciness building up slowly and lingering in the mouth. Those who know both will reach for one or the other depending on the dish.

Grainy, mild at first, spicy on the finish

Pommery Mustard first tastes of mild vinegar and mustard seed, followed by a warm, slightly peppery sharpness that fades away gently. The whole seeds crackle when chewed, releasing little bursts of spice. The paste between them is creamy, not watery.

Part of the seed is ground, part remains whole. The French call this mixture à l'ancienne, in the old style. The spices, which the manufacturer does not specify in detail, provide a subtly spicy depth. Sugar is not listed in the ingredients.

Those looking for a mustard with a strong, biting sharpness will find Pommery too mild. For that preference, a classic Dijon is the better choice. For children accustomed to smooth mustard, the whole seeds are also often unfamiliar.

In the pot, the mustard is firm enough to stand on the spoon. Over time, a little liquid may settle on the surface. This is not a defect; a quick stir is all that is needed.

From pot-au-feu to mustard crust

In France, mustard from Meaux is traditionally served with pot-au-feu, boiled beef with vegetables. A spoonful next to the meat, along with coarse salt and cornichons, is all that is needed. It also pairs well with white sausage, liverwurst, or a plate of cold cuts.

For a classic rabbit with mustard, lapin à la moutarde, coat the pieces thickly with mustard before braising. Towards the end, add cream and another spoonful of mustard to the sauce. For a mustard crust on salmon or cod, mix two tablespoons of mustard with breadcrumbs and a little butter, and briefly broil the fish.

Cold, it becomes the base of a coarse vinaigrette for lentil salad or potato salad. One teaspoon to 3 tablespoons of oil and 1 tablespoon of vinegar is enough; the seeds remain visible in the dressing.

Good to know: The sharpness of mustard only develops when an enzyme in the crushed seed reacts with water. Heat slows this process. Mustard that cooks for a long time in a sauce therefore becomes significantly milder. For more spice, add a spoonful just before serving.

An 18th-century recipe and a vinegar-making family

The small town of Meaux on the Marne, well 40 kilometers from Paris, has been known for its mustard for centuries. According to tradition, the canons of the town passed their recipe on to Jean-Baptiste Pommery in 1760. His family produced the mustard for generations. The year 1632 on the label recalls the time when it was already supplied to the royal table.

Today, it is produced by the company Les Assaisonnements Briards, whose factory stands right at the town gates. Behind the company is the Chamois family, whose vinegar works supplied the vinegar for Pommery mustard for decades. The supplier eventually became the manufacturer, and knowledge of vinegar and mustard has since been in one pair of hands.

Vinegar is more important for this mustard than one might think. It determines how fresh the paste tastes and how long it retains its spiciness. A distilled vinegar, such as the one the family has been producing since the 19th century, brings a clean acidity without its own fruity notes.

In 2019, Moutarde de Meaux was awarded best mustard at the World-Wide Mustard Competition. For a product whose recipe is over 250 years old, this is a remarkable confirmation.

A pot that belongs on the table

What sets Pommery apart from other coarse mustards, besides the recipe, is the packaging. The heavy stoneware pot is sealed with a natural cork, covered with red sealing wax. The stoneware keeps out light, and the pot looks better on the table than any glass.

However, the pot is not practical for every kitchen. It is heavy, and a cork cannot be opened as quickly as a screw cap. As a gift for hosts who cook French food, it is therefore a good choice, preferably with a second mustard for comparison, such as the mustard with gherkins from Orléans or a coarse mustard from Burgundy.

A mustard that has been stirred according to the same principle for over 250 years and still makes every cold cut a French dinner.