Apple Onion Fig Sauce

Apple Onion Fig Sauce. Black fig, onion, and balsamic, slowly reduced.

Apple Onion Fig Sauce is an almost black fruit-and-onion sauce by Easton Reed, made from fig puree, apple, and balsamic vinegar. Not a chunky chutney, not a barbecue sauce, not a sweet fruit jelly.

Apple Onion Fig Sauce is Easton Reed's fig-onion sauce in a 260-milliliter bottle, made from black fig puree, apple, and onion. The roast is on the board, resting. There are two spoonfuls of pan drippings, not enough for a sauce.

This is exactly where this bottle solves a problem that would otherwise require a roux, red wine, and twenty minutes. Two tablespoons into the hot pan, add some broth, bring to a boil once.

What results is dark, shiny, and tastes like it took more effort than it actually did. The sweetness comes from the fig, the acidity from the balsamic, and the savory base from roasted onion.

Starts sweet, finishes savory

The appeal of this sauce lies in its mid-way change of direction. At the forefront is a sweetness that only dried fruits can achieve, grainy and warm.

In the glass, it's almost black and barely forms bubbles when stirred. When opened, it first smells of balsamic, then of prunes and roasted onion.

Black fig puree, at 19 percent, is right after sugar. Black fig is the dark-skinned variety with deep red flesh, which stores significantly more sugar when ripe than green varieties.

Apple puree, at 9 percent, provides a counterbalance. It brings a brighter, clearer acidity than the balsamic and prevents the fig from becoming cloying. The apple itself is barely discernible as a distinct fruit.

The balsamic provides the second acidity, darker and rounder, because it contains concentrated grape must. Onion puree at 7 percent and roasted onion provide the savory base on which everything else rests.

Finally, black pepper is added, and underneath is a curry powder that doesn't taste like curry. Fenugreek and coriander seeds act as a warmth that is felt more in the throat than on the tongue.

It is not spicy at any point. With 44 grams of sugar per 100 grams, it clearly belongs on the sweet side. Anyone expecting a tart, tomatoey gravy will find it too sweet.

The texture is also a deliberate choice. There are no fig pieces or onion rings, but a smooth, heavy mass that slowly trails off the spoon.

Two tablespoons in the pan, and the pan drippings become sauce

This sauce plays its most useful role where a sauce is missing. After roasting duck breast, pork loin, or beef tenderloin, deglaze the pan with 100 milliliters of broth and two tablespoons of sauce.

One minute of simmering is enough for it to thicken. Red wine instead of broth makes the result tarter, and a knob of cold butter at the end makes it rounder and shinier.

Cold from the bottle, it pairs well with strong cheeses. With Gorgonzola, aged mountain cheese, and old Gouda, it is as natural as a fig mustard you would otherwise have to buy separately.

It finds its place next to the raclette pans, as well as with fondue. On a burger with blue cheese, a spoonful replaces any jam from the refrigerated section.

On a sandwich with cold roast meat or ham, a thin line keeps the sweetness in check. With liver pâté and terrine, it takes on the role of fig mustard.

Roasted root vegetables also benefit from it. Beets, parsnips, and pumpkin mixed with a tablespoon of sauce and some oil go into the oven, then the edges caramelize.

It also pairs well with game, replacing the usual cranberries with something darker. A tablespoon next to venison or deer is enough; more would mask the natural flavor.

For a cold dish, three simple steps suffice. Toast crostini, spread cream cheese on top, add a teaspoon of sauce. A few walnuts on top, and the appetizer is ready without any preparation time.

Our tip: Add the sauce to the pan only towards the end; long cooking will make it flat. The same cheese platter will be fruitier and lighter with the raspberry sauce, and tarter with the cranberry chutney.

Fruit with cheese is an Italian invention

The combination of cooked fruit, vinegar, and mustard has its own name in Northern Italy: Mostarda. In Cremona and Mantua, it has been on the table for centuries whenever there's cooked meat or cheese.

There, whole fruits are candied in sugar syrup and then infused with mustard oil. The result is both sweet and pungent and is traditionally served with Bollito misto, the boiled meat of the Po Valley.

This sauce works on the same principle, but with a restrained hand. Instead of mustard oil, the recipe contains a mild mustard base made from water, mustard seeds, and spirit vinegar.

The mustard therefore doesn't sting the nose, but rather anchors the sweetness from below. Anyone familiar with a true Mostarda will find this sauce considerably tamer, but it pairs with far more dishes.

The second difference lies in the vinegar. Balsamic brings both acidity and residual sweetness, as reduced grape must is its starting material. Pure wine vinegar would merely attack the fig, rather than supporting it.

Roasted onion brings aromas that raw onion does not have. When roasted, its sugars and proteins react with each other, and it turns from pungent to sweet and nutty.

At Ryan's Specialties in Augsburg, the recipes for the Easton Reed line are developed. This bottle contains neither tomato paste nor smoke, making it unique in the entire range.

Not a chutney, but a spoonable sauce

Its consistency and use differentiate it from chutney. A chutney has chunks and is spooned, while this sauce can be spread, poured, and dissolved in a pan.

Thus, one bottle covers two tasks for which two jars would otherwise sit in the refrigerator. This saves space and explains why it empties faster than expected.

One limitation applies: its dark sweetness contributes little to fish, light un-crispy poultry, or pasta. It's also in the wrong place as a dip for fries.

From the refrigerator, it appears thick and unyielding. Five minutes at room temperature are enough for it to become spreadable again and for its sweetness to unfold.

As a gift, it works well with a piece of blue cheese and a dark bread. If you want to give the whole range as a gift, you'll find seven more bottles in the same format in the Easton Reed assortment.

A spoonful into the hot pan drippings, and the sauce for the roast is a matter of two minutes.